Dot 5 is the Silicone based fluids (not 5.1, they are glycol as well). That said, we can be assured that the Prestone Dot 4 "synthetic" is most definitely glycol based as would be all Dot 4s (listed as Synthetic or not). Not sure what that article is getting at exactly, but it may be a better way to think about things that what the marketers have done if thats where it goes. GM's crappy brake ducting doesn't help anything either. I've really only seen people recommend SRF for dedicated high hp racecars, but I guess the Z06 makes race car power, has as much, if not more traction and more weight. I dunno, maybe I'm wrong and the Z06 with it's massive r-compounds and extra weight will boil 600 or 660, but I don't think that's the case. Eagle's Canyon is one of the harshest, if not the harshest track on brakes in the country and 660 stands up just fine. On the track, honestly, if you're boiling RBF 660 or even 600 (and properly bleeding before track days), you should probably make sure something isn't dragging in your brakes or correct your driving. If it's not seeing track time, if nothing else, it's a complete and total waste of good money. It eats or corrodes something- I dont know what. I have a few bottles of this, but my track mechanic strongly advised against it for a daily driver. I use nothing but the best in the brake system - Castrol SRF!! It's cheap at Walmart and has worked great for me. I've used Prestone DOT 4 for the clutch for many years in my C6 Z06, ZR1, and C7 Z06. Supposedly that's what GM puts in at the factory. I've been purchasing Pentosin Super DOT4 from Amazon for my Ranger method maintenance. It may take several "tries" to get it completely cleaned out of the former fluid before you attempt to utilize the vehicle." When you switch from glycol, you should completely flush your system of the old fluid. You should wait until you need to do major maintenance (replacing large portions of your braking system) before you switch. Synthetic brake fluid should not be mixed with glycol based fluids. This gives the brakes a spongy feel to them. It does however, absorb air, which makes it somewhat compressible. Silicon brake fluid does not absorb water, like glycol based fluid. Non-synthetic brake fluid (normal brake fluid) is glycol based. "Synthetic brake fluid, as we think of it, has a silicon base. Maybe it's not an issue in a clutch system, but all I know is what I read. In a brake system, numerous tech articles suggest not to mix the two. Some tech reports say DOT 4 marked "synthetic" is silicon-based, whereas std. I wouldn't be surprised if the beloved Castrol GT LMA was made by BASF or Clariant in Germany.I keep reading conflicting info on this. CCI already has business with the Japanese and a few private/national labels. From a little Google sleuthing, BASF and Clariant provide fluids for ATE/Pentosin and for the European OEMs. There are only a handful of companies who make brake fluid - BASF, CCI, Clariant, Dow and Shell. I just flushed the brakes in my parent's car with ATE SL6 DOT 4LV fluid and it works as fine as ever, the real test will be getting the ABS/VSC to actuate, supposedly the LV fluid does help ABS/ASR/ESP work faster and more "transparent". The Japanese also vouch for borate esters in their brake fluid. You can't use DOT 3 in a car that calls for DOT4 or use non-LV fluid in a car that calls for DOT 4LV or Class 6 fluid. Keep in mind that DOT 3 and 4 can be mixed with each other, and you can use low-viscosity in older cars. I tend to gravitate towards the German-made fluids(Castrol, ATE, Pentosin) because of the fact they use borate ester chemistry. If you don't know what brand brake pads you have, you certainly shouldn't care about the brake fluid brand. In my opinion, for a typical daily driver two years is too short and ten years is too long. Manufactures that specify DOT4 fluid typically recommend a two year replacement period (but rarely include that in their new car 'all service included'). Factory DOT3 fluid works for a decade or two. Don't buy race fluid unless you need it (and plan on replacing it before each track weekend). Generally speaking, a higher boiling point is associated with being more hygroscopic, which shortens its service life.Ībsent other information, buy the lowest boiling point fluid that works for your application. They all meet the minimums according to the DOT standards, but some are better than others. Generally speaking, the higher the boiling points are, the more stable it will be over time. Is there any difference between brands that are all DOT 3 & 4 certified?
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